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The two-rail chassis revolution


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#51 tonyp

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 09:56 AM

clap, clap, clap....

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#52 TSR

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 10:19 AM

Rick,
We used to dye the Jet Flags in dark green at Checkpoint and it worked fine... :)

#53 GTPJoe

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 06:23 PM

Hi Rick,

All this Thorp stuff, like the ads, jogged my memory of another chassis shown here awhile back.
And Kondor was at the controller with a Morrissey chassis powered with a Thorp arm..
Remember this?

morrissey_kondor.jpg

Maybe another build??

See ya!
GTP Joe Connolly

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In practice there is.

#54 dc-65x

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Posted 06 January 2011 - 10:22 PM

Hi Joe,

That's a beautiful car Mike built. It's about a year after the 1969 Hinsdale race. Love the C-can at the shallow motor angle.

"So many slot cars to build, so little time". :)

Rick Thigpen
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#55 Steve Deiters

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 09:40 AM

Hi Rick,

All this Thorp stuff, like the ads, jogged my memory of another chassis shown here awhile back.
And Kondor was at the controller with a Morrissey chassis powered with a Thorp arm..
Remember this?

morrissey_kondor.jpg

Maybe another build??

See ya!

Ah yes! A 1/8" Arcolite axle on the front with a segmented axle tube, multi-strand lead wire from the motor, #2 split nose self tapping screw with and oversized washer melted down into the tuncated Jet Flag post,48 pitch Cox spur gear, upright body stiffeners on the rear of the pans,diaplane (probably mylar) and spoiler (probably lexan) stapled to the body, flat brass stock bridging the motor box, notched bat pans,a working drop arm with a straight retention spring of .032 wire, and a chassis with more hinges than rationals to use them driven by a screaming Thorp 26-27 arm in a "C" can....you can almost smell the Dart and lighter fluid in the air!!!

#56 zipper

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 11:25 AM

I ditched my Arcolite after the first race as I lost a wheel - didn't realize a flat on the axle might have helped.
Pekka Sippola

#57 tonyp

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 12:24 PM

Those fiberglass axles used to grind away the inside of the axle tubes...

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#58 Ben Martinez III

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 04:22 PM

And they were noisy as hell - best lubricant for them was lighter fluid

#59 Jaz

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 04:40 PM

After being throughly destroyed one nite at Nutley, I bought my first real 'pro' arm from Tango, a Thorp Dbl27. Back on Long Island, I was immediately harassed by Jim Greenaway for my purchase. I used a selection of different arms from various makers like Reeteez and Thorp and a Steube (that one was a rocket!!). My motor building skills of the day were not quite up to snuff and I usually wound up smoking them - the arms that is (it was the 60's).
Finally, I broke down and saved up a princely sum of $40 to have Jim build me a proper motor which lasted quite a long time.
Jeff Morris

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#60 dc-65x

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 06:14 PM

You are not going to paint it black? :)


Black! Black is meaner looking.


Probably an endbell from a Mura M444 that were black...


“So let it be written….so let it be done”. Yul Brynner

Posted Image

Well, I do my best anyway. I’ve never done the black dye thing before….. :unsure:


My wife left the house for a while this morning. Time to try dying that endbell :unsure: I broke out the liquid BLACK Rit dye and went to town. I lined the stove and sink with aluminum foil. I also lined the pot but that didn't work, it burned through:

Posted Image

Dying the endbell did work quite nicely. Painting the chrome can worked out too:

Posted Image

Here's the re-assembled motor in "Evil Bucks Racer" black :D with a masked off and tinned area for soldering the brace:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Rick Thigpen
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#61 tonyp

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 06:18 PM

Beautiful!

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#62 JerseyJohn

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 06:56 PM

Bloomington Gold RICK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
JJ TRADE MARK BANNER copy.jpg

John Chas Molnar

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#63 dc-65x

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 07:17 PM

Thanks Tony and John.

I ran the motor through a break in process again (1.2V - 10 min, 2V - 20 min, 3V - 10 min) and it again ran a bit hot for the first 10 minutes. Then then settled down and ran just a bit warm (not at all hot) for the rest of the process.

I don't know why it ran so hot the first time I ran it. I know the bearings weren't binding then or now.

Maybe it was pissed I didn't paint it black in the first place :shok: . Well, whatever, it's sure happy now :laugh2: .

Another thing I noticed is how smooth it runs. You guys were talking about how good the Thorp balance was and this motor is the smoothest vintage motor I've tried.

Thanks again to everyone for all the input :) . Time to build a chassis.......

Rick Thigpen
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#64 dc-65x

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Posted 09 January 2011 - 10:22 PM

Finally I can start the chassis now that the type of motor I want to use has been decided. So let's follow Mike Morrissey's construction article I posted earlier:

Posted Image

I started with modifying this still available Russkit motor bracket like so:

Posted Image

The axle tube is cut to length, relieved and the jig motor soldered in place with an L-brace. I decided on a 15 degree motor angle:

Posted Image

The first "half rail" is installed. Yes I know it supposed to be a half rail and mine are REALLY long. Leaving things long helps me get them REALLY aligned :) :

Posted Image

The other half rail has to clear the rear tire. The endbell drive configuration makes this somewhat tricky:

Posted Image

Adding the cross brace ties things together....

Posted Image

....and I'm at step 8 on Mike's construction article:

Posted Image

For me, this was the hard part.

Lets roll :D

Rick Thigpen
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#65 dc-65x

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 04:23 PM

Next up are steps 9 and 10 plus motor bracket and rear axle tube bracing. Mike dropped the ball after step 10 and just showed some finished chassis pictures. I'll try and show the steps he omitted:

Posted Image

Here my Rick's Jig has everything set up for the 1 1/4" drop arm. The half rails are cut to length. The straight inside rails are 1/16" brass, the outers are piano wire bent to match the contour of the half rails:

Posted Image

Everything soldered up:

Posted Image

An L-shaped brace strengthens the rear axle tube. Mike faces his rearward like mine. Bob pointed his forward:

Posted Image

Bob attached his motor bracket to axle tube brace on the inside of the bracket. I put mine on the outside like so:

Posted Image

That picture reminded me I need to finish soldering the brace on top of the axle tube. I didn't want to run the solder all the way to the end for fear of soldering in the bearing too.

Anywho, that brace has to clear the spur gear and it takes some fancy-lad bends:

Posted Image

Posted Image

The rear half rail has to clear the motor and rear tire. It's a tight squeeze:

Posted Image

A bottom view:

Posted Image

I add a temporary cross brace on the front until I get the front axle on:

Posted Image

So step 10 is finished and we're on our own......the front axle tube beckons :) .

Rick Thigpen
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#66 Phil Irvin

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 09:20 PM

:wub: :wub:

Lookin good...Wish I could build so 'nice'.. :D

OLPHRT
PHIL I. ;)

#67 dc-65x

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 12:49 AM

Thanks Phil,

I love building these old slot cars. I hope some will build one and stuff some hairy open motor in just like they did back in the day :shok: ........PUNCH THE BANK!

Rick Thigpen
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#68 endbelldrive

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 02:25 AM

I love looking at and building these old cars too. :wub: I don't have a raceway within a few hundred miles but I build 'em anyway. :scratch_one-s_head:
Bob Suzuki

#69 Champion 507

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 04:31 AM

Rick's jig motor looks better than a lot of my running motorsPosted ImagePosted Image

That Champion motor set up with Mura endbell will look mitey fine in that chassis! Good work as always, Rick!Posted Image
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#70 dc-65x

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 11:16 PM

I don't have a raceway within a few hundred miles but I'd build 'em anyway. :scratch_one-s_head:


I hear ya, I would too. Right now I'm lucky to have one within a day trip...THANKS EDDIE!

I've got the front axle installed with neato cut-outs in the axle tube:

Posted Image

This early car has the rear upright facing toward the rear of the car. Later cars had it facing forward:

Posted Image

The wheelbase is 3 15/16" which was Morrissey considered one of Bob's "short wheelbase" cars in early 1969:

Posted Image

I want to share something that worked really well for me installing the front axle tube:

Posted Image

#1: Lay in the front upright. Make it's height a couple of inches longer than needed with a nice 90 degree bend. Put it in place against the front axle tube and get it as aligned as well as you can by eye-ball.

#2: Put a nice little cold solder blob on one side of the upright. This "cold joint" will keep it from falling over but it will still be loose enough to move into alignment. Once you’ve aligned it with a square, solder it to the axle tube.

#3: Now tack the rear upright in place the same way. The extra long ends will make aligning the front and rear uprights easy.

Onward......

Rick Thigpen
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#71 Pablo

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 11:28 PM

:D
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#72 dc-65x

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 02:15 PM

Sometimes all doesn't go smoothly in "Chassis Land". I had some problems that I thought I'd share. Sometimes you just need to fix what went wrong as best you can, learn from it and move on.

I remember when I was working on the shop floor as a machinist. Sometimes as I was making the part I felt like I was "saving" the part from one operation to the next :laugh2: . They would get made to spec but :blink:

Anywho, let the adventure begin :) :

The drop arm is a Cobra 1 1/4" wide by 1/16" brass slab. Bob modified his for the plumber pivot tubes. From the fuzzy pictures I first made mine like this (stock arm on the left):

Posted Image

I didn't like that much so I went further:

Posted Image

Bob skillfully used a cut-off wheel in a Dremel to relieve the drop arm for "solder stops" for the pivot tube. I substituted my milling machine for skill and cut the reliefs on the right:

Posted Image

Next I had to fix some ugly solder joints :blink: . The joint had a solder fillet that was either too small and didn't go evenly across the joint or it was just too big and ugly :angry: .

If you are a mere mortal like me stuff like this happens so just fix it ;) . Use the iron to drag the extra solder to a location where it will be easy to remove.......

Posted Image

.....with a Greg Wells "Solder Blob Sucker Upper":

Posted Image

Then the collateral damage where the iron was moved across the drop arm is sanded off and all is well. This NOT shaping the solder joint with files or sandpaper. This is not too bad of a "save":

Posted Image

The next problem I really couldn't fix so I had to do a "work around". I figured out how I THINK Bob braced his drop arm pivot tubes after I made my half rails too long. I think he use a Z-brace as shown in red below:

Posted Image

I could have moved my pivot tubes farther forward but I wanted to keep them at the MAGIC 2 1/8" from the front axle that Morrissey spoke of. Instead I used an L-shaped brace going under the pivot tube. Here it is all cleaned up:

Posted Image

The other dimensions that Morrissey said Howie's chassis had are a 3 15/16" wheelbase and 15/16" guide lead:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Plumber time.....

Rick Thigpen
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#73 Duffy

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 06:04 PM

I'll be happy to see the plumber too. No matter how weird that sounds.

Rikky, I'm goin' sorta crazy here, looking at all that crazing and cracking on a simple z-bend drop arm! We gotta do better than this, and I don't care how long this hasn't been a problem for anyone. Can you send me a drop arm to copy, so I can tool up for a proper job once & for all? I'd like to give it a whack. I think it's a Just Cause.

Duffy
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#74 dc-65x

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 06:50 PM

Hi Duffy,

"That's vintage", my vintage slot car collector mentor Dave used to say. That is the worst Cobra drop arm I've seen so far. They don't grow on trees so they get used crazed or not ;) .

They are much more available than this Team Nutley drop arm:

Posted Image

It is similar in shape to the common Parma but much longer and usually made from thicker material. The "TEAM NUTLEY" is also usually stamped a bit neater and lower near the rectangular hole.

They are RARE!. I was desperate enough for one to bid over $100 for this one and I still lost the bid to LASCM (any time I see a feedback of over 4500 on a bidder I assume it's LASCM :) ). If you really want to make a drop arm, this is the one to make IMHO :) .

Rick Thigpen
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#75 Duffy

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 07:03 PM

Well then: done.
Be a good boy, pop over & steal it from LASCM and send it to me, I'll put it through 15-year-old Duffy's CMM and Rhennius Machine, and return it and several perfect clones within the week. --Clones SANS-crazing, certainement.


fra. Dufay
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#76 dc-65x

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 07:08 PM

I have ONE original on a center section. I can make a mechanical drawing of the drop arm ;) .

Rick Thigpen
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#77 Duffy

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 07:13 PM

I'll talk to the Rhennius Machine. Be warned, it's a taciturn motherin' machine if ever was. But I'll try.
Michael J. Heinrich
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#78 dc-65x

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 07:31 PM

....Rhennius Machine


:unsure: got to Google this one........

"Device of alien manufacture, which will reverse, or turn inside out, any object passed through its mobilator"

:shok: Be careful Duffy!

Rick Thigpen
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#79 Duffy

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:18 PM

Ohhhhh WELL, so there's a little teeny PROBLEM....C'mon, who'll notice?

Rhennius Droparm Test 1.jpg
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#80 Mopar Rob

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:34 PM

Duffy's CMM and Rhennius Machine,



Well Duffy finally stumped me and I had to google "Rhennius Machine". I should have seen the clue with 15 year old Duffy? :laugh2:


I know I'm probably going to give you a heart attack with this one, but one random thought was to CMM a slot car body, make modifications and do a rapid wax prototype to create a new slot car body mold :blink:
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#81 Duffy

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 09:33 PM

Well Duffy finally stumped me and I had to google "Rhennius Machine".

I'm a monster Roger Zelazny fan. 'Nuff said.

I know I'm probably going to give you a heart attack with this one, but one random thought was to CMM a slot car body, make modifications and do a rapid wax prototype to create a new slot car body mold

Oh .The Old School name for this is "Backpour" and was done with cheaper equipment than SLS. Maybe we don't need higher tech here.

Now'days , stereolithography is done in several very-useful engineering plastics, including composites. Properly programmed, you can do pretty impressive stuff. Here's a show-off project gone horribly wrong, a FLUTE built in a SLS tank and using several disparate materials--impressive for the accomplishment, wrong because the engineers didn't do basic homework up front like asking a MUSICIAN first. We often go off on a project with similar prep.

But, yah, if someone took the time to become versed in 3D CAD, he could draw a solid model of a given car and send that file to the prototyper, who'd make the plug. Or we could just carve the thing the Old Good Way and save some time and money. I do not know which would be the better expenditure of resources.

A lot comes down to What your Hobby Is.

In my other hobby, flying models, some guys would get caught up in the perceived excellence of graphing up colors & markings on their computer, then printing out whole model airplanes' worth of tissue covering, all complete. --And I noticed they'd often get so involved in the imaging, they no longer built and flew. Their Hobby would shifted. This can happen, if you're not watching. It's why I react with some reserve whenever we talk about applying New Tech to Old School. Might work, but it's worth cautiously considering.

I sometimes worry that guys take what I say as somehow extolling the virtues of my way of doing things, as if I expect my exigencies to be instantly universal; or that someone's having a go at me when I don't instantly see the inherent reason of their particular hobby niche. I say here,neither's important. We talk. That's all.

Duffy
Michael J. Heinrich
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#82 Howmet TX

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 03:01 AM

I had to go and see the doctor about my exigencies. Thank heavens for the National Health Service as we say over here. They're pretty much universal now; thanks for your concern.

John Dilworth


#83 tonyp

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 08:26 AM

I'd love to have some team nutley chassis parts. I still say ours were the nicest at the time. flattest and the nicest finish. Mike Tango never did anything half-assed.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#84 Jairus

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 10:51 AM

I am with Duff on this one. Rick no doubt builds beautiful hand crafted pieces of jewlery!
But for me a vintage car should be built with vintage techniques and vintage hand tools just as it was "back in the day". (always hated that expression)
:)

J

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#85 Prof. Fate

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 12:42 PM

Hi

I don't know that I have ever had a Nutley! Or even seen one in person. Very cool.

I do have a small bin of drop arm parts but I think that they are all dubro, associated, parma and a few champion. But, IN THE DAY(grin), I don't think any of us even thought about the way the things get broken with the bends. The first I remember being conscious of it was listening to Philippe rant about bad bends a long time ago. I think we did commonly reinforce the bend with bits. I still do that with my flexi chassis as well, but no one articulated it that I remember.

Fate
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#86 dc-65x

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 08:06 PM

I cut some pans from .03" K&S brass strip. They are 4.1" long X .68" wide. The small part to clear the front wheel is 1" long X 1/4" wide:

Posted Image

Here the pans and plumber rails are laid out. I made the plumbers out of 1/16" wire. I'm not sure if Bob was using .055" yet:

Posted Image

My Rick's Jig allowed me to use the many pin locations to space the plumber rails away from the main rails so as not to solder the whole mess up solid :shok: . I used Kapton high temperature tape to hold the pans in place and keep the hinge tubes from getting soldered to the pans:

Posted Image

But for me a vintage car should be built with vintage techniques and vintage hand tools just as it was "back in the day".


I hear ya Jairus....but if I couldn't build on my Rick's Jig, I think I'd change hobbies! :) Hmmmm.....I better buy a spare jig in case Rick hits the lottery!

A U-shaped .03" wire holds the front of the plumber rails together. I used some tiny strips of 600 grit sandpaper to space the plumber rails away from the main rails for a little side to side "slopski":

Posted Image

Another U-shaped .03" wire holds the rear of the plumber rails together. The .047" wire cross piece is cut into the pan hinge tubes so it sits down flat on the plumber rail:

Posted Image

I lucked out and got the plumber to work nice and "smoof":

Posted Image

Pan hang'n time :)

Rick Thigpen
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#87 dc-65x

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 05:30 PM

I decided to make up all the hinges, pin tubes and pan down stops at once and then solder the whole mess at one time:

Posted Image

A square lines up the extra long hinges nicely:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

The finished pans:

Posted Image

Posted Image

I tried to do well by this chassis and get rid of any acid flux left in the hinge tubes. I drilled "Blow-holes" in the pin tubes to help flush out and blow out the flux. I treated it to a 5 minute ultra sonic bath with tap water and baking soda followed by a soap and water wash. Finally a 5 minute ultra sonic bath with plain tap water finished up the cleaning process. Then blowing it dry and placing it in a oven at 150 degrees for a half hour.

What did I get for all my efforts......RUST!

A couple of 5 minute washings and the thing rusts :shok: :blink: . I think it's MY tap water and the baking soda :unsure: . I will try distilled water next time.

I took the time to polish out the chassis after each step. It's hard to polish out a finished chassis and get in all the tight spaces. Now I had a brand new RUSTED chassis to deal with :angry: .

A few hours with sandpaper, a wire wheel in a Dremel and metal polish saved the day:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Time to assemble..... :)

Rick Thigpen
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#88 Jairus

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 05:54 PM

Beautiful Rick! Love it and the instructions. However, I suggest you try using a "sharpie" brand marker to "mask" where the solder should not go. This is a fantastic way to control the solder because it WILL NOT flow where there are markings. ;)

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#89 Tex

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 06:09 PM

...I suggest you try using a "sharpie" brand marker to "mask" where the solder should not go. This is a fantastic way to control the solder because it WILL NOT flow where there are markings.



I LOVE these tidbits!

Rick, the chassis is a thing of beauty... the things that excite an old man. :rolleyes:
Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#90 dc-65x

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 06:17 PM

I LOVE these tidbits!


I do too Tex.

Thanks Jairus, I'll give it a try :) .

Rick Thigpen
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#91 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 06:26 PM

Definitely another beauty, Rick! Bob Suzuki uses liquid whiteout to control solder flow. I've used ATF.

Bill Fernald
 

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#92 Duffy

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 06:27 PM

The only time you will have a pristine, mirror-polished brass & steel chassis is for the Vanity Shot. So, why worry about rust that's presenting during the build?

My thought: wash, scrub, tumble, polish, wirebrush, Scotchbrite & Whatever at every stage of the build, or at the end of a work session. Shiny? NOW HIT IT WITH A FLOOD OF WD-40.
That keeps the rust off 'til your next build&clean session. Then, at last assembly, go through the whole ringamijing, NOW RIGHT NOW take your Sparkle Shots of the dry perfect high-Albedo rig, and then HIT IT WITH A FLOOD OF WD-40.
That'll keep it nice--
--'til you hang the gear on and take it to the track.
It'll all be downhill from there.

Think of it like the Prom Pics you paid that fortune for: she's scrubbed and fresh, dressed to the 6.5s (this is The Hipster Age, after all), happy like she's got the world by the throat, then into the Limo and away. You don't want to see her tomorrow morning. And SHE doesn't want to think about the next 60 years, either.

Yah. Slot Cars are a little like that. Get the shot now.

Duffy


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#93 dc-65x

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 07:25 PM

Thanks Bob. You know it's not a thick flow of solder. It really is a micro thin flash plating. A couple of strokes with 1200 grit sandpaper and it's gone. That said, I would like to prevent it from happening in the first place. I will try the "tidbits" and thanks!

'til you hang the gear on and take it to the track.
It'll all be downhill from there.


Duffy, Duffy, Duffy......."Don't hit me with those negative waves so early in the morning." :laugh2: It's fine patina baby ;) . It's just aging like a fine Tennessee whiskey :D . I just wipe off "piss finger" prints at the end of the track session and let her patina ;) .

Auto spray wax helps too....(thanks Dokk ;) )

Rick Thigpen
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#94 tonyp

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 07:50 PM

Once you get the " money shot" let her age gracefully...

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#95 Pablo

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 08:08 PM

Didn't we already know your tap water was doing bad things ?
Or did I dream that ? :shok:
Paul Wolcott

#96 Jairus

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 08:18 PM

Once you get the " money shot" let her age gracefully...

:laugh2: :laugh2: :unsure: :laugh2: :unsure:

Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#97 dc-65x

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 08:37 PM

Didn't we already know your tap water was doing bad things ?
Or did I dream that ? :shok:


I know Pablo, I know.....I'm a slow learner I guess :blink: . But this was only 5 minutes!

I promise, never again will I use my tap water :blush: .

....let her age gracefully...


Yup! :)

Rick Thigpen
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#98 TSR

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 08:45 PM

Rick, we are sending the Tap-Water police immediately to make sure that you will conform!
"You Will Be Assimilated. Resistance is Futile." :laugh2:

#99 Duffy

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 08:53 PM

Once you get the " money shot" let her age gracefully...

Don't you put the term "Money Shot" that close to my daughter's Prom pics. I'm a FATHER, dammit.

Michael J. Heinrich
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#100 MSwiss

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 01:04 AM

I know you posted on liking to polish as you go, to get into the hard spots,
but you might be doing yourself a disservice by continually cleaning as you go.
A little oil from your fingers might help protect the wire and brass.

Also the final step might be a little too much, baking soda, ultra sonic cleaner,
oven, etc.

Especially an ultra sonic cleaner. I've heard of and witnessed too many horror stories with them
to ever use one again. Guys would send in good arms to armature reconditioners and would get
them back with "opens" where the brazes connecting the wire to the com were eroded/ultra soniced away.

I would just keep a bucket of soapy(Dawn is fine)water near your work bench and periodically
dunk the jig with the chassis on it into it. Dab it 95% dry with some paper towels and move on.
If you think your tap water is funky, certainly go to distilled.

Last, but not least, you probably already do it, but don't leave any quantity of flux out
on your work bench. Just pour a tiny bit in a tire tube cap and refill as needed.

BTW, nice bend on the top, gear side brace wire.

Mike Swiss
 
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