147 replies to this topic

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks Pablo & Steve


Yes they were found lurking all alone on the Bay of E !
look real nice on the Russkit wheels. Probably don't even need gluing the nice tight fit on the rim.

Amazingly perfect as new condition rubber

[don.siegel]

From that angle they actually look a lot like the Russkit front wheels! But Russkit's were larger in diameter, maybe 15/16 or 1" if I remember right...

 

Don

[TSR]

Don and Paul,

the Russkit wheels were 15" X 7" fronts and 15" X 10" rears, or in scale,  0.625" in diameter X  0.290" fronts and 0.415" rears. Russkit also made a 1/2" wide rear wheel used on the Honda and Eagle F1 kits and RTRs. These are the ones the racers used.
The front tires used by the R&C racers were mostly K&B narrow fronts of 1" diameter and Tiny's gray rear sponge of 1/2" wide by 1" diameter. At least these are the dimensions on all six of the R&C survivors at the LASCM. 

Sometimes in the 1980s, someone (likely REH) made Russkit replica front wheels that were larger in diameter and slightly wider, but they are not the real thing.

[SlotStox#53]

Dont worry Team Pittman haven't fallen asleep ...YET!! The design Team are still awaiting a bodyshell so they can determine wheelbase etc  , the mechanics are now getting a little restless until they can get cracking on a chassis with the metal stock all ready to go! So getting desparate they started looking into the current bodywork available in the warehouse!

 

So while the Porsche is still heading for one of the R&C races the mechanics & Team boss found these with a production/appearance date one year either side of '66..

 

 

Ferrari P4 /350 Can Am Lancer original Factory painted  with 1:1 date of 1967

 

 

 

Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe * Dilworth style*   1:1 date 1965

 

 

 

 

Ferrari at the 3" width ,Daytona Coupe around 2 3/4" ...... or just wait for the Porsche   Using the coupe could leave the wheels 1/16 outside the body for extra track as per the R&C rules...

[SlotStox#53]

Edit for double post! Either body would look sweet with some detailing

[SlotStox#53]

After Steve very kindly gave me the dimensions ( Thanks Steve )  to the Truescale Porsche 906 I noted them down and got to work .

 

Deciding to make some of the chassis out of tubing in particular stainless steel tubing I needed a new tool

 

 

 

With the JDS tubing in hand and the tube bender thingy set to work !

 

 

 

 

 

Making the inner rails one piece with the gear guard proved a little frustrating in SS tubing so the inner rails are brass tube. Second ones are SS.

 

More rails to come but thought I'd show the progress being made

[Pablo]

HEY I always wondered what those threaded holes in the jig were for !!   Cool.

Looks like a toboggan up front. Only without the 2 days of steaming and bending multiple pieces of wood

[SlotStox#53]

About the tightest curve obtainable in the SS with the K&S bending spring thingy any tighter curve & the spring would shift or the fingers give out !

 

Yeah that's what those holes are for lacking in the relevant size Jig wheel or old large spur gear had to get creative with those screws & measuring ..

[dc-65x]

Great scratchbuilding Paul.

 

Onward

[SlotStox#53]

Great scratchbuilding Paul.

 

Onward

Thanks Rick   Venturing forth with the next set of rails body mounts, drop arm and a few other ideas to come .

[Jairus]

Mmmmm curvy rails!   I like.

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks Jairus

 

Glad you like curvy rails, have added a couple more !

 

Decided on more brass ( can never have too much shiny brass !) plus it's a nice contrast to the SS & inner brass rails

 

 

[Pablo]

Which iron(s) are you using Paul ?
I use all three of mine, but my favorite for jaildoor joints is The Rick's. Tip is absolute perfect size.

[SlotStox#53]

I'm using Rick's Ungar with the pl133 tip (think that's the number) as you say its a great size for these joints.

[Pablo]

I have a tendency to abuse mine by leaving them on for long periods without temp control.
The first tip didn't last very long, so I got smart and took Swiss' advice......got a Radio Shack fan sucking air away from my face and across the tip.

[SlotStox#53]

Yeah the tip is fading fast got spares .. will have to look into the fan trick. Although I've got the temp controller so crank it down after so many joints etc.

[Bill from NH]

I don't know if its over here, but on Steve Okeefe's other website, he had a brief article on bending tubing with photos. As I recall, he used two pieces of the next larger tube over the piece to be bent & used them as levers for bending.  If these two outside pieces touched when the bending began, the bend didn't distort. This should work on brass tubing okay, but I doubt it would work on stainless steel unless it was annealed, maybe not even then.

 

This bending procedure is listed under Contemporary Builds, Puzzle Pan, Page 4. For the reading challenged, here's the link.  http://slotblog.net/...3-puzzle-pan-4/

[Pablo]

Thanks Bill. I'll probably be needing that soon......

[SlotStox#53]

The bending procedure or the puzzle pan Pablo ?

Thanks for the info Bill

[Pablo]

The bending tip.

[Hworth08]

Looks real nice! The main frame rail with the arch in the rear was very efficient and popular at our track during that period and later became the "trademark" of Cobra frames.

 

For the speed freak purist. It appears the motor bracket is soldered in "flat". When 15/16th tires are used the front of the motor will sit higher that it could have. It complicates the build a bit but the Fast Folks were building the frames that "tapered" from rear to front in 1966.

 

Again, not to criticize or take away from this frame that's fitting right in the period. Just a note for history.

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks Don!

 

Noted down about angling the motor & bracket down towards the front Never done that before so will be kept in mind for future builds

[Hworth08]

Paul,

 

The frame is looking so nice and 1966 that I was very hesitant to mention the "off-set" I guess you could call it, for the tall but still not scale rear tires.

 

Champion of Chamblee and Cobra, the best over-the-counter frames were built "flat" to use .750 rear tires on their 16D frames.

 

Don't change this frame!  If the track is slick a higher COG will give more grip anyway.

[SlotStox#53]

Oh I won't be changing this frame Don , don't worry!  

 

 

As this is My "first"  proper "vintage" and in particular  "1st R&C car build" it's great to hear its so '66

[SlotStox#53]

First stages of the drop arm are done, with the pivot still to do Getting closer and although Steve gave me the body mount dimensions for the Porsche I will probably leave the mounts till a body gets here to finish it off!

 

 

 

 

Once the chassis is finished will probably bolt the motor up standard, leaving the epoxying etc for later. Need to get me toaster oven for baking the arm

having said that I need to get a blooming airbrush too!