147 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Tell me the middle drop arm rod goes inside the set screw hole.

[SlotStox#53]

The large middle rod does indeed go right into the set screw hole, as far as it can go without interfering with the guide hole.

[Pablo]

Thats what I wanted to hear. Should be plenty strong for any chashes with that big powerful locomotive motor you are installing

[SlotStox#53]

Thats what I wanted to hear. Should be plenty strong for any chashes with that big powerful locomotive motor you are installing

yeah needs to be plenty strong with that lump of a can!

[Hworth08]

That's going to be a very early '66 looking frame!

[SlotStox#53]

That's going to be a very early '66 looking frame!

Thanks Don!!
 
Trying the best I can to do a period Korrect chassis for the first time
 
Little update , attached the drop arm hinge tube ..
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Slowly getting there   Got a few detail parts sorted for the body ,whenever one turns up.. Along with a few parts for my next R&C build.. Some talk around the garage area of either a Team Pittman GP car or some other team entering the fray! Wilson in a GP car perhaps ?

Quick question, what are the MDC metal crown gears like? Any good, or kind of questionable like the Russkit ones.

[dc-65x]

Hi Paul,

 

Looking good

 

 

Quick question, what are the MDC metal crown gears like? Any good, or kind of questionable like the Russkit ones.

 

I've had really bad luck with the Russkit metal gears as they were all so out of round and wobbly. The MDC gears can work really well, for metal gears. But like all crown and spur gears, they need a pinion they're "happy with". I've had the best luck with Wilson steel pinions. I believe EJ's still has these:

 

 

That's not to say other brands of pinions won't be "happy" as well though. One thing, the screw hole seems more fragile than a Cox gear for example. You should put a flat on your axle and be careful tightening the screw.

 

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks for the gear info Rick having never used them before & seeing some on the vintage slot marketplace wanted to make sure they were ok before grabbing some!

Liked the look of the rare weldun metal crown gear you used on that Lotus & thought of the MDC as a more available alternative. Plus the fact I still needed to secure a gear for this build anyway .

Any ideas as to a suitable gear ratio for this Pittman Can?? Again never used one so only really been used to deathstar Parma 16d's or other vintage stuff at around 3 - 3.5:1 ....

[don.siegel]

I'm running my Pittcan on 8:35, which seems pretty good for it on our tracks (latest was an American Orange...) - really depends on what track and which Pittcan (original or X version - I think mine's the higher revving version with ball bearings). If you can't get an 8 tooth pinion, try 9:36 or so. (PS: just looked at another of my Pittcan cars and it's running 10:35 - these are all with about 1-1/16 rear tires...)

 

Don 

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks Don Mine has the regular bushing, but the arm appears to be the X version (checking with a picture Rick posted)it shows the hotter arm with a second ring below the comm to hold the windings together!!! Although I haven't metered it yet to check for sure, the notchy /cogging feel when turning it over compared to a second Pittcan I have (with bushings) it feels so much more stronger , so I'm hoping it's the hot one

 

As for the track....... I have no clue

[dc-65x]

I'm running about 3.8:1 with 1 1/8" tires on mine sidewinder. Not sure if that's optimum, it's just what I guessed at.

[SlotStox#53]

Cheers Rick

 

Are they 48 pitch? 

 

More progress with the drop arm pivot complete ,down stop on and also up stop on the front axle tube. Luckily when soldering the various bits of tubing that make up the pivot I remembered the ways to prevent solder /acid flux doing their job! So as the was no ATF on hand I grabbed the nearest sharpie marker and colored in the pivot rod(pin tubing) and the pieces I didn't want soldered!

 

Then once it was soldered the drop arm was well stiff, sharpie marker inside, so another trick I read on here , brushed some acid flux in the joints of the tubing wiggling the drop arm et Voila!!! One nice & smooth drop arm action

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just the body mounts/struts to go and then a final buff & polish

[Pablo]

It's a sturdy looking sled, and I'll bet it compliments the power of the He-Man motor

 

Good thing you read Slotblog and pick up on little tips like the acid trick......otherwise, you would probably have thought the hinge was a disaster. Ron Hershman actually recommends breaking in BB's using acid. I'm not that brave, myself, but it's true.

[Jairus]

Hey Paul, I like what I am seeing here.    
Chassis is great and from the number of rails I believe the car would fit in well in 6th R&C race. 

 

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks Pablo yeah I remembered reading one of your builds mentioning about Rons trick with the acid flux for tight hinges

I did think for a moment oh no!!! I soldered the drop arm solid

Thanks Jairus ! Haven't really focused on one race but more of a general R&C build, good to know its actually more suited to one in particular

[SlotStox#53]

Secured a couple of nice exterior detailing parts for the Team's car, although still with no body in sight

 

 

Plus some parts for a future R&C build arrived today  

 

Tyco sidewinder motor aswell as a nos dc65 6Volt arm & brushes So I can tackle the period tune up trick of the Pittman arm in the Tyco motor and follow in the footsteps of the couple of PittCo or Tyman hybrids that appeared in the R&C races

 

Thought I'd post them here seeing as there's no real updates until the dang body arrives   and it wasn't worth starting another build thread yet (that's saved for a GP car)

 

 

 

[Pablo]

When it finally arrives, it will have been worth the wait.

[SlotStox#53]

Porsche 906 shell arrived and she's a real beauty

 

Roughly trimmed out & awaiting some nice "small" curved scissors to do the wheelwells perfectly.

 

In the meantime it was back to the chassis build!

 

With side bar/tube/support whatever you like to call em still to do, it's almost there, pin tubes nicely angled up for correct match of the Porsche sides where they curve down & in, tubes sitting perfectly at the widest point of the sides.

 

Big THANK YOU    to Steve O for all the dimensions of this body whilst I waited for it to arrive

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Go Paul

[dc-65x]

Looking good Paul.

 

You're going to like the way the little Tyco sidewinder handles.

[SlotStox#53]

More chassis work with it being done and first assault with the dremel wire wheel! & more body trimming... She's getting there   With the motor fitted it certainly has a nice "weighty" feel to it, should hold the track

 

Rear tires just for show grabbed from the Parma based Stock car just to give an idea on how it will look & allow body trimming/mounting. Front tires need truing , will be securing rear tires soon.... have finally got a truer and a comm lathe    for future projects so once a few more pieces are gathered projects should "roll out" a lot speedier!!!

 

Will need to adjust body front air intake as it just clashes with the guide holder & weight/collar so some massaging of the plastic to follow!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

I have small inserts to fit those rears if you want !

[Bill from NH]

Paul, who pulled the 906 body? It looks well detailed.

[SlotStox#53]

Bill the Porsche is by Truescale

Thanks for the offer Pablo but I've already got those BWA/Russkit inserts for the repop Russkit wheels.

[BWA]

Nice thread.

 

BTW, those Auto Hobbies front tires are repackaged Monogram narrow Fronts.