247 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

That's probably good advice, Bill. But I just hate to mess with a new original arm especially since balancing was Thorp's claim to fame.

It's time to move on to the chassis and the body is still undecided.
 
I've got a new plan. Howie thinks the chassis most likely had a 3.9" wheelbase and a .9" guide lead. I'm going to build the chassis to that wheelbase. That will fit all the bodies shown below but the Mirage, so the Mirage is out of the mix once I start the chassis.
 
For the guide lead, I'll have to fit it to whichever body has the shortest nose.
 
I've added another possible body to the quoted post below. It's the Dynamic Lotus 40:
 

Here is a vintage butyrate plastic Dynamic Mirage. This one is now out of the running. The wheelbase is too long.



Vintage butyrate plastic Dynamic McLaren Mk 3:



TrueScale Lexan reproduction Dynamic McLaren Mk 6:



TrueScale Lexan reproduction Dynamic Lola T70:



I forgot to add another possibility so here's the TrueScale Lexan reproduction of the Dynamic Handling Body Lotus 40:

 

This is the later version of the Lola T70 that Dynamic introduced a month or so after the Arco Nats. The main difference from the rare first generation version is a slightly longer nose.

 
Howie, even if you haven't decided on a body yet, if you know of any of the bodies you definitely don't want to use, let me know.
 
Also if your were really considering the 4" wheelbase Mirage let me know that too and I'll put the brakes on the chassis build.

[Half Fast]

That $5.49 Thorp arm would be about $40 adjusted for inflation. So it only looks inexpensive now, but it wasn't then.

 

Cheers,

[tonyp]

Rick, my money is on that rare wide Russkit T70 with the moveable engine detail.

[dc-65x]

I wouldn't bet against you, Tony!
 
Below is what I just PM'd Howie about the Dynamic and Russkit first and second generation Lola T70 bodies used for the race:
 

Okie Dokie, Howie. Below are some pictures of the bodies. First are the Dynamic Lola T70s. The first generation "short nose" is on the right. The easiest way for me to tell them apart is by the header pipes behind the engine detail on the first generation car.
 
You can also see the anglewinder influence on the newer body on the left. Note the wider rear tire bulge to clear spur gears of the anglewinders:
 

 
Below are a couple of shots of the Russkit Lola T70 TonyP mentioned. I think you and Sandy may have run this second generation Russkit body in the Car Model races:
 

 
It is a bit longer, lower and wider than the first generation car and has a separate engine detail piece that, at first, you could cut out the body for and mount it back over the crown gear. Later production like the ones in the pictures, had the hole already cut out to where it would be on the real car.
 
Here is my buddy Rodney's built up version:
 

 
Hope this helps,
 
Rick

[SlotStox#53]

Wow, that Russkit Lola shell is sweet. 

Never seen one of them before. The one pictured by Rodney is way cool!

[dc-65x]

Well, this just goes to show that miracles can happen. Howie has managed to get hold of a real Russkit Pro Lola T70 body. That's the body that he ran in the race just as Tony P suspected.

 

Here's a gen 2 "Pro" body (note the big round wheel openings)...

 

 

... compared to a first gen body as used on the Russkit Black Widow twin-motor cars:

 

 

Pro body on the bottom:

 

 

Pro body shown on the right:

 

 

 

Pro version interior, drivers head, and motor details shown on top:

 

 

OK, time to get the acid flux a-smokin'. 

[tonyp]

What do I win?

[SlotStox#53]

Way to go, Howie!

That is one beautiful-looking Russkit shell Wonder where that rare beast was hiding?

[dc-65x]

What do I win?

 

 

Thanks, Tony!

[Bill from NH]

Rick,

 

How does the thickness of these two bodies compare?

[dc-65x]

Hi Bill,

 

This particular body doesn't seem to be one of the fabled Russkit "ten thou" lightweight bodies. It is thinner plastic than the earlier version I have however.

[tonyp]

I don't believe the thin ones ever came cut out. I remember ruining the first one I tried to mount when I tried to cut out the wheel wells

[Bill from NH]

I had a two-piece Russkit Eagle F1 with a thin body that might have been less than .010". The rear engine piece was molded black styrene. I would have bought this in 1967 or '68. I was wondering if the T70 Pro body was a similar thickness.

[dc-65x]

I don't believe the thin ones ever came cut out. I remember ruining the first one I tried to mount when I tried to cut out the wheel wells

 
Yes. I have an uncut Lotus 40 like that ,Tony. Thank goodness this body isn't like that. It's one thing to deal with modern .010" Lexan bodies. It's quite another to deal with .010" 50-year old super brittle butyrate!
 

I had a two-piece Russkit Eagle F1 with a thin body that might have been less than .010". The rear engine piece was molded black styrene. I would have bought this in 1967 or '68. I was wondering if the T-70 Pro body was a similar thickness.

A vacuum-formed body's plastic thickness varies as the body is being pulled down over the mold. Usually the top of the body will be closest to the original thickness of the plastic sheet used to form the body. The bottom of the body will usually be the thinnest.

 

The Pro Lola body we're using is about .020" on top and about .010" on the bottom sides.

[tonyp]

The game is afoot.

[dc-65x]

Indeed. 

 

I had to take today off because of a prior "real world" commitment. Tomorrow I plan on getting back to the important stuff... vintage slot cars.  

[Don Weaver]

You're gonna have to get your priorities straight !

 

Don

[dc-65x]

I'm back on track, Don, although my progress is slow... as usual.

 

Here's the first page of the Mike Morrissey construction article I'm following. I'll be posting pictures that more or less follow his steps while pointing out what I'll be doing differently to keep in line with Howie's original:

 

 

Step 1: Russkit bracked reamed out 3/16" OD. Bearings mounted from the inside facing outward. 7/32" tube slipped over the bearing. What Howie did differently is solder his thrust washer in place:

 

 

Step 2:  Everything fixtured up in my Rick's jig and the main rails soldered in place:

 

 

Step 3:  Reinforcing rods soldered between the main rails to combat chatter:

 

 

Next up will be the 1/4" wide brass strips and drop arm pivot... but first, lunch.

[SlotStox#53]

Everything stops for lunch. 

Great progress so far, Rick; looks sweet already. Will have to remember about those reinforcing rods to stop chatter .

[tonyp]

Lovely.

[dc-65x]

Thanks! So far, so good...

 

Step 4.  Here's the bracket bracing ala Howie and a peek at the 1/4" brass strips:

 

 

Step 5. More views of the bracket bracing:

 

 

Skipping the step 6 comparo of Mike and Howie's chassis we move to...

 

Step 7.  The pickup pivot. I still need to cut out the center of it:

 

 

Finishing off for tonight here are some shots of the brass strips soldered onto the center section:

 

 

 

 

Onward...

[tonyp]

Makes me want to throw away my jigs and never turn my iron on again.

[Tex]

Can't say enough about how much I enjoy your artistry, Rick.

[Hworth08]

Looking good!

[dc-65x]

Thanks Tony, but if you never "turned your iron on again" I wouldn't have any chassis designs to copy! Pros like you and Howie came up with the design innovation, built chassis quickly, efficiently and raced the pee out of them. I have the luxury of using every tool I can find and spending as much time as necessary to try and make a fitting tribute to the originals.