277 replies to this topic

[glueside]

I ran mine yesterday in the Central Illinois Slot Series (CISS).  Put a piece of bullet proofing (.007) on each side of the rear bite bar to raise the pans just a little bit.  Bite bar was .039 in rear and .032 in front, JK cut down guide with a .010 spacer.  Put a 2.2 gram piece of .063 lead behind the lead wire retainer (series requires 90 grams minimum and I was at 89.1).  I was running ProSlot 4002-FK motor geared 11/35 with Alpha Soft Wonder Drilled tires cut down to .755 (chassis set up for .750 tires with .063 clearance, which is series rules), and a Red Fox body. 

 

Car performed FLAWLESSLY!!!!!  Turned a 4.390007 on Orange and averaged a 25.4 throughout the race on a 160' Grandstand.

[gc4895]

First, thank you JK for the innovation in chassis design and construction. The design is great, it arrived in wonderful shape right out of the bag and the steel appears to be of tougher stuff than I have encountered before. All in all, well done.

I agree with the comments about putting an angle on the guide tongue. Fortunately, I employed my 10-32 bolt + nuts + washers set-up to bend the coined guide fitting before adding the Chicagoland guide support. Wow, it was a wrestling match. It had me wondering if I even needed to add the support. Being a belt and suspenders kind of guy I added it anyway.

Yes, this A chassis seems to be made of tougher stuff.

[Matt Sheldon]

First, thank you JK for the innovation in chassis design and construction. The design is great, it arrived in wonderful shape right out of the bag and the steel appears to be of tougher stuff than I have encountered before. All in all, well done.

I agree with the comments about putting an angle on the guide tongue. Fortunately, I employed my 10-32 bolt + nuts + washers set-up to bend the coined guide fitting before adding the Chicagoland guide support. Wow, it was a wrestling match. It had me wondering if I even needed to add the support. Being a belt and suspenders kind of guy I added it anyway.

Yes, this A chassis seems to be made of tougher stuff.

Also keep in mind that if you use a RedFox guide flag, that it already has a 2-5 degree kick to it, so there is no need to add the angle to the tongue.

[MarkH]

Also keep in mind that if you use a RedFox guide flag, that it already has a 2-5 degree kick to it, so there is no need to add the angle to the tongue.

Are all the Red Fox Guides made that way? I looked on line and just eyeballing the provided picture the stem appears to be 90 degree to the braid face. Perhaps just an illusion.

[MSwiss]

I just put a Red Fox uncut, on the Cheetah A.

 

That one, anyway, looks straight to me.

[W. J. Dougherty]

What are people using for bite bars? Factory or DIY? How will DIY bite bars be teched?

[swodem]

We are sticking to Factory bite bars, easily tech'ed then.


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[W. J. Dougherty]

It will be interesting to see what USRA D2 says about all that...

[Samiam]

" 0.8, 0.9, 1.0*, 1.1, 1.2*, and 1.3mm will be the J-bar accessory pack (* stock bars). Don't have a price yet, should be ready in about 2-3 weeks. The existing J-bars are a good starting point for most setups. Guys can bend their own wire if they really want to play before we get the production J-bars in stock. "

 

These should satisfy even the most anal retentive rules Nazis.

[gc4895]

I live in the most fortunate situation that the only rule is Chinese arm (yes) vs. American ProSlot arm (no) in s16d. [Class is any stamped chassis like JK or Champion and 4" body like JK Toyota.  That's all. Have a nice day.]  In reality, there are a number of guys that break even this simple rule but they don't win anyway.  We simply hope that they get better and more competitive.  We strive for close races.  The closer the better.  It's a hoot.   

 

So, we have no rule Nazi's.  As for bite bars, we look forward to experimentation.  How cool is this!  We are all totally excited with the possibility of mixing and matching the bars of your (our) choice. 

 

May God bless.

[Zippity]

Besides rounding all leading edges with an emery board, I had to tweak the guide flag tongue upwards using my Triggerman guide tool.

 

I installed a Cahoza low cut guide flag - without spacers.

 

No additional lead was added to the chassis.

 

I placed two small pieces of .10 thou body armour underneath the rear bite bar as recommended by Andy SB.

 

I was surprised at just was how wide the rear axle spacing is between the bearings - there was no room for additional spacers as with other 4" flexi chassis.

 

This chassis with an LMP body, ran like a dream - some 4/10's faster than anything else I have in my stable

[Greg VanPeenen]

Ron,

 

Do you have any of the new Mossetti chassis to compare it to?  

[Zippity]

Yes but the JKC43 is faster and better handling on our flat track

[Greg VanPeenen]

Cool, Thanks for the info Ron.

[swodem]

...I was surprised at just was how wide the rear axle spacing is between the bearings - there was no room for additional spacers as with other 4" flexi chassis....

 

I thought about this comment and had a check through my 'collection' to compare:

 

C11 .025                  31.5mm

C21 .035                  31.0mm

C43 New                  33.37mm

Mossetti Patriot        32.65mm

X25                           33.1mm

X24                           33.1mm

Pro Slot                     31.12mm

Mossetti titan            31.31mm

[Zippity]

And the CTF?

[swodem]

That old dog!? 31.5mm


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[Zippity]

Thank goodness I wasn't going mad.

 

Sadly, we are restricted to "that old dog" for flexi racing in NZ.

 

Why don't you Aucklander's start a campaign to get things changed? 

[swodem]

Given up mate. Now us (Hsn), Tga, Ham and The Naki doing our own thing with the C43

You guys can die with the CTF if you like. Self harm by another name


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[Zippity]

Can I join?

[swodem]

You don't travel, so that would be a neat trick


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[Zippity]

So instead or trying to resolve the issue (as you see it) you would rather do what??

 

Form a break-away group?

 

That's great for 7 racers

[Samiam]

This new chassis goes for around $29 here in the U.S.  Not a large investment for most racers. CTFs go for $21. A set of tires are $13. A teenager makes $9/hr working at a fast food joint here. A loaf of bread costs $3.89. 

 

Not sure why CTFs are the rule there in NZ. Cost? Availability? Nostalgia?  They are practically vintage at this point. Maybe it's time to drain the swamp and make NZ slot racing great again.  

[MSwiss]

Let's stay on topic.

Please start another thread if you want to discuss the CTF.

[CoastalAngler1]

I just opened my new frontless JK Aeolas chassis JKC43.  Wow!  I'm disappointed with it initially, especially after reading this thread.
 
Not flat!  What are all you guys talking about? Center section needs work to get the rear touching the block. Pan is awful - both sides are bent upward where the bite goes thru. I simply grabbed one of four chassis at my local track. Sorry, gotta call BS. This chassis is not flat at all... must be Florida gets the crummy stuff?
 
Edited - Two hours later - Also, the tongue was down... now on to the jig for rear end assembly.