277 replies to this topic

[Ralph Thorne]

Yes, it appears the wording did confuse you. I'm sorry if I wasnt clear.

 

I dont have time to argue semantics or re-write my post. We talked about this last night. No need to keep going on and on about it.

 

Some people receive their chassis flatter then others. SSDD. End of story. No big deal.

[MSwiss]

edit-misread above post.

[swodem]

I don't think anyone is complaining, just reporting their experience.
Haven't seen any posts in capitals with angry faces yet ;-)
I imagine most are more concerned how flat it stays after a wreck
Good to see new product generating new discussion and new excitement
Our region is taking this opportunity to run a class of interclub races using this chassis only (unmodified). I'm pumped about it


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[MSwiss]

Some people receive their chassis flatter then others. SSDD. End of story. No big deal.

I thought you said perceive, not receive.

 

Ignore my post #128 above.

[JK Products]

Ralph, I am clearly advertising it is the flattest and truest production chassis ever manufactured. If in the future you happen to find one out of the bag that does not meet this claim, please, I beg you, take me up on my free return and replacement offer as I would love to see what you could reasonably be disappointed with. And please name the chassis you think was better. Perfect? No way. Is it the best production chassis ever manufactured? We, and 99+% of our customers think so. Some will always complain of course, and for a variety of real or imagined reasons. 

[Frankie Schaffier]

Tim,

Keep up the good work! As I've told you off line, your efforts are appreciated. Some folks expected the worst when Jerry stepped back, in my opinion you've proved them wrong. Thanks for what you do.

Frankie

[swodem]

Did some more testing and development today with two other racers.

One major thing that needs to be fixed first is reducing the 'joggle' bend on the pans so the do not hang down below the outrigger wings

Out of the packet the bend is greater than the thickness of the steel

 

You can pack the gap with tape, or just flatten it out a bit

I used the latter method

 

Before

 

 

After

 

[MarkH]

Yes, I noted the same issue. Depending on how the die is made some simple surface grinding and proper shims could fix it. Without see ing how the die is built of course.

Still, easy to tweak until then.

[glueside]

Did some more testing and development today with two other racers.

One major thing that needs to be fixed first is reducing the 'joggle' bend on the pans so the do not hang down below the outrigger wings

Out of the packet the bend is greater than the thickness of the steel

 

You can pack the gap with tape, or just flatten it out a bit

I used the latter method

 

Before

 

 

After

 

 

Steve - I would be very interested in hearing how this change helps your times.  By your pictures you have raised the outer pans higher than they need to be.  Please keep us informed.

[Fast Freddie]

My chassis wasn't straight but no big deal I'm capable of getting it straight and did.  I have made an observation.  It seems the chassis has a preload built into it.  With the center and pan flat, the bent end of the rear bite bar on the gear side and the bent end of the front bite bar on the opposite side, hold the pans on the outside edges and turn the chassis bottom side up.  It appears on my chassis that the right tang on the pan touches the outrigger while the left tang has a large gap, that's with the guide tongue facing you.  I took up the extra space between the tangs and outriggers with .007 bulletproofing but still have a gap but only when I hold it in this position.  I also noticed that the movement of the chassis/pan at the rear bite bar is restricted on the gear side (bent end of the bite bar) but not on the other side.  The front bite bar seems to be working properly, but I'll be checking it out Monday just to be sure. It would seem that with all those small bite bar alignment tangs some may need a little bit of filing to get right.   

[Lee Palmer]

I bought the 2 piece mosetti, took it out of the bag, perfect. Oilites, pin tubes and won last 2 races with it. Just luck, don't know, got your new chassis and another mosetti coming. Will let you know on the other chassis.

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[swodem]

My chassis wasn't straight but no big deal I'm capable of getting it straight and did.  I have made an observation.  It seems the chassis has a preload built into it.  With the center and pan flat, the bent end of the rear bite bar on the gear side and the bent end of the front bite bar on the opposite side, hold the pans on the outside edges and turn the chassis bottom side up.  It appears on my chassis that the right tang on the pan touches the outrigger while the left tang has a large gap, that's with the guide tongue facing you.  I took up the extra space between the tangs and outriggers with .007 bulletproofing but still have a gap but only when I hold it in this position.  I also noticed that the movement of the chassis/pan at the rear bite bar is restricted on the gear side (bent end of the bite bar) but not on the other side.  The front bite bar seems to be working properly, but I'll be checking it out Monday just to be sure. It would seem that with all those small bite bar alignment tangs some may need a little bit of filing to get right.   

I see what you mean, I have a spare chassis here for parts that I haven't touched yet and its as you describe, but you don't have to tip it upside-down to see this, just hold it by the centre section right-way up and it displays the same floating l/h side pan. 

Obviously not flat.

My flattened one is fine

[swodem]

 

Steve - I would be very interested in hearing how this change helps your times.  By your pictures you have raised the outer pans higher than they need to be.  Please keep us informed.

 

Yes the Chassis is .76mm thick and I have bent it to .6mm

That should allow just sufficient track and glue clearance so that the pans don't touch the track during cornering and affect the handling

This is how I had it using tape during testing and it greatly improved handling, so now its bent permanent so I don't have to worry about tape and the problems that come from that

The rear of the pans are level with chassis so should be 0.5mm high at tech

[swodem]

" 0.8, 0.9, 1.0*, 1.1, 1.2*, and 1.3mm will be the J-bar accessory pack (* stock bars). Don't have a price yet, should be ready in about 2-3 weeks. The existing J-bars are a good starting point for most setups. Guys can bend their own wire if they really want to play before we get the production J-bars in stock. "

 

These should satisfy even the most anal retentive rules Nazis.

are these available yet?

[Samiam]

 

Yes the Chassis is .76mm thick and I have bent it to .6mm

That should allow just sufficient track and glue clearance so that the pans don't touch the track during cornering and affect the handling

Good tip. I'll be looking at this on all my two wheelers now.

[Samiam]

Steve,

 

That quote was from Tim from another thread. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.

[swodem]

Steve,
 
That quote was from Tim from another thread. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.

Well until they arrive I'll experiment with home-made....




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[swodem]

One of the nice things about spending time with a new product is you get to understand the design.
The unique and weird thing about Slotcar stuff is almost nothing comes with instructions
I now see why such a deep cut in the chassis design - to allow for easy and fast pan removal...




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[swodem]

And...a slight .15mm kink in the wing tips to stop the whole front end plowing




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[Fast Freddie]

Steve I hate to disappoint but both the center and pan on my chassis are as flat as a 4 day old open beer.  I normally make this up side down check to get an accurate reading of the pan up and down movement using feeler gages.  Both sides should be the same but that's not the case on this chassis.  I'm not done with it yet, maybe I'll figure out what the problem is with a little more troubleshooting.  By the way if that chassis above is your race chassis shouldn't you have an up angle in the guide tongue?  I actually looks like it's pointing down, good luck with that. 

[swodem]

Steve I hate to disappoint but both the center and pan on my chassis are as flat as a 4 day old open beer.  I normally make this up side down check to get an accurate reading of the pan up and down movement using feeler gages.  Both sides should be the same but that's not the case on this chassis.  I'm not done with it yet, maybe I'll figure out what the problem is with a little more troubleshooting.  By the way if that chassis above is your race chassis shouldn't you have an up angle in the guide tongue?  I actually looks like it's pointing down, good luck with that. 

 
FF, never tried 4-day old open beer
Thats front-on shot is an as-yet unused chassis, tongue not tweaked yet. Its straight/flat, not pointed down, camera angle is slightly above chassis, hence why you can see down the whole length of it.

[Fast Freddie]

Worked on this chassis exclusively since Monday.  It still isn't right.  Both the center and pan are flat but when assembled something isn't right. There is very little play in the chassis where the rear bite bar passes through.  The difference in movement from the gear side to the opposite side is about 4 to 1.  When sitting flat on the block the gear side of the center pan is touching the outrigger while the opposite side is sitting above the outrigger.  I tried angling the bite bar in relationship to it's bent end and that changed nothing.  I noticed the nub at the end of the bent end on the rear bite bar was at an angle and maybe it was hanging up in the chassis tang just enough to cause a problem.  So I noticed Steve's custom bite bars that he made were straight in post #143 mine were like the ones in post #144. WARNING, WARNING  DANGER Will Robinson don't try to straighten the nub on the supplied bite bar, it's very brittle and I broke mine.  So now this chassis is OOC (out of commission) until I get or make another bar. 

[MSwiss]

You need to post pictures, Fred.

 

Your post is confusing.

 

4 x the amount of movement on one side?

 

That doesn't seem possible.

 

Are you all your problems after you "straightened" the chassis?

 

Guys are already winning races with this chassis.

 

I just spotted on FB where Walker McNultey just won a race against a strong field, this past weekend.

[SlowBeas]

I finally had a chance to pull mine from the package and examine last night. Flat as a pancake (I, too, wouldn't taste a four-day-old beer to know how flat it is.  ) So, I tried the upside-down examination as mentioned above. I find that one side (the side opposite the bends in the bite bar) moves much more than the side with the bends in the bite bar.

 

Theory: Could it be that the bends are not flat? If the bent wire does not lie perfectly flat once removed from the chassis, I suspect it could have an effect on the chassis' up-and-down movement. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time last night to do a more thorough inspection.

 

Just a thought, and I plan to take a closer look at it tonight.

[MSwiss]

Jim,

Like I said to Fred, a pic will help.
 
On the couple I left, that I haven't shipped, I don't notice any difference in the pan movement, from one side to the other, and the extra bends in the J bite bars don't seem to have any bearing on said movement.